Frame Components

The Malahini hull is constructed of marine grade plywood over a lumber "skeleton". The "skeleton's" main structural members are called frames, of which there are five. The frame components must be made as accurately as possible and assembled accurately per the plans.

To assist in the assembly, I set up a layout table made out of a sheet of 1/2" mdf which was painted white. Using a drywall square, I drew a line along the length of the mdf which will be the setup reference line. I then drew a perpendicular line about halfway down the setup line and this will be the center line. Setup and center lines are annotated on the plans and are a critical component of the boat build to ensure the hull is built in the proper planes.

With the set up and center lines drawn on the layout table, I now have to transfer the full size frame patterns to the layout table. The instructions state how to do this using carbon paper and sighting holes made on the patterns. This process is a bit cumbersome, but with some patience, I was able to transfer the frame patterns to the layout table.

The African mahogany I purchased was already surfaced both sides and one edge and came in 13' lengths.

African mahogany

In order to transfer the frame component patterns to the lumber, I used the tracing paper and transferred each pattern to posterboard in order to make templates which I then carefully cut out. I chose boards that would generate the least amount of waste as possible when laying out the parts.

template on lumber

The picture shows an example of where I layed out a frame 1 vertical on a wide piece of lumber and I will flip the template so that the other vertical is side-by-side, which will leave waste to a minimum.

The pencil lines that are made on the lumber after tracing around the templates are hard to see due to the lumber color and texture. To help this "blind as a bat" builder, I outlined the perimeter of the template with white chalk. I taped the template into place on the lumber and traced around the template, with the pencil lines cutting through the chalked areas. With this method, the lines become a little more prominent.

chalk the perimeter

 

more pronounced lines

 With the component shapes transferred to the lumber, I then go to my 14" bandsaw and cut the individual parts out. I do not go all the way to the lines, but stay about 1/16" away. I finish up fine tuning the component shape by using an oscillating spindle/belt sander (Ridgid). Where possible,attach like parts together using double backed tape prior to sanding. In this way, you are guaranteed that they are identical.


To help with accuracy, I taped the template to the lumber and finished the sanding by using the edges of the template as a guide. Once I finished sanding, I layed the component over the paper patterns and checked for accuracy and tweaked as necessary. After many hours of work, I now have all the frame components cut out and packaged together awaiting the arrival of plywood.

A frame "package"